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Armagnac

Armagnac is a place in the south west of France, to the west of Toulouse, in the historic Duchy of Gascony. There are sources reporting distillation in the region as early as 1411, but how close this would be to the modern brandy is hard to say. Certainly the Gascons have been distilling grapes here a long time.

As with Cognac, Armagnac began to assume something like its present form in the 17th and 18th century when merchants discovered the effects of ageing in oak on the local spirit. Cognac on the coast near Bordeaux looked to Britain, Holland and the wider world, and became a global industry, whereas inland Armagnac would have been relatively inaccessible until the coming of the railways in the 19th century. This explains the very different character of the two industries. Cognac is vast and global, it exports around 98% of its 180 million bottle production whereas Armagnac produces just 6 million about half of which is consumed in France.

It’s one of the most beautiful parts of France with its castles and little towns nestled in rolling countryside. Much Armagnac is still made by farmers who also make wine, keep livestock and grow maize and tobacco though there are bigger companies like Delord and Janneau which operate as negociants buying in eaux-de-vie and aged spirits.

The region covers around 2,420 hectares (compared with over 75,000 hectares in Cognac) and is divided into three parts: Bas-Armagnac, Haut-Armagnac, and Armagnac-Ténarèze. Bas-Armagnac means ‘low’ because it is less than 120 metres above sea level. Around 50-60% of production is from this sub-region and the sandy, iron-rich soils are said to produce some of the finest grapes in Armagnac. Then there is the tiny Haut-Armagnac, the high ground, up to about 200 metres above sea level, with mainly chalky soils which produce a rare delicate and fruity spirit. It makes up less than 2% of production. Finally, there's Armagnac Ténarèze making up the rest of production, around 40%, with its rich clay and chalk soils leading to a more robust spirit. A lot of Armagnac will be blends of the three regions.

The most popular grape varieties are ugni blanc, baco, folle blanche, and colombard though there are other ones allowed in production. Armagnacs are usually blends but you do see varietal expressions. Once harvested, the grapes are fermented either with wild or cultured yeast to produce a light acidic wine of about 8% ABV. This must be distilled within a few months as it cannot be preserved with sulphur which would be concentrated during distillation.

The distillation process is unusual and worth looking at in some detail. In the 18th century, Armagnac would have been made with pot stills but in the early 19th century a unique style of column still was introduced. This is now the standard for the region though one of the biggest producers, Janneau, is unusual in using Cognac-style pot stills and double-distillation to make a smoother, more elegant spirit. The column is known as an alambic Armagnacais, with a maximum of 17 plates but often as few as four. Unlike the Coffey and Stein stills that were being developed in Ireland and Scotland a little later, the alambic Armagnacais produces a low strength alcohol of between 50-70% ABV which is packed full of congeners. These distinctive copper stills look like something out of Jules Verne and are often fueled by wood, even those belonging to large producers like Château du Tariquet. Usually once lit, these will work 24 hours a day until the entire vintage has been distilled. The distillation season runs from October to March. Often villagers will hold a party known as La Flamme de l’Armagnac to celebrate this special time of the year. Only 48 houses in Armagnac own their own copper still, so to support the rest of the houses, there are five travelling distillers who pull their alambic by tractor around the villages.

These unique stills produce a spirit that’s full of character, sometimes a little fiery in youth, but responds well to long-ageing in wood. Traditionally, Armagnac was aged in local oak though nowadays barrels might come from further north in France. Only 400 litre French wood barrels are allowed and a proportion will be kept in new wood to impart spice and tannin. After decades in wood, the best Armagnac develops a character known as ‘rancio’ with notes of dried apricot, pineapple and walnuts. As in Cognac, much Armagnac is sold with statements that designate a minimum age: VS (two years), VSOP (four years) and XO or Hors d’Age (ten years.) You also see age statements like 10 or 20 years old as in whisky and many vintage releases. These last offer astonishing value for money and are often bottled at cask strength. Many producers have demi-johns of vintage Armagnac dating back to the 19th century. In fact this whole region is a mecca for those who love old wood-aged spirits.

Despite its very traditional image, Armagnac producers are innovating with packaging aimed squarely at the whisky consumer, Islay cask finishes (though these are not allowed to be called Armagnac), and an unaged Armagnac Blanche that’s proving very popular with bartenders. Younger fresher Armagnacs are great in simple cocktails like an Old Fashioned or a Sidecar, whereas the older examples are best sipped neat. In Armagnac itself, no meal is complete until you’ve had decent vintage brandy. You can start your meal the Gascony way too, with a glass of chilled Floc de Gascogne, a blend of grape juice and brandy, not dissimilar to Pineau des Charentes.

Delord 25 Year Old Bas-Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Delord

From Delord comes a bottling of sublime and unbelievably great value Bas-Armagnac, with a delightful wooden presentation box. It was distilled from four different grape varieties, Ugni Blanc,…  More info

Delord 25 Year Old Bas-Armagnac
4
$73.99
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Armagnac Tasting Set

15cl, 40%
Drinks by the Dram

A far more rustic, intense prospect than its cousin Cognac, Armagnac is a phenomenal spirit in its own right. It is a rich grape brandy from Gascony, and the region is home to some real gems. This…  More info

Armagnac Tasting Set
$27.72

Janneau Armagnac 1947

70cl, 40%
Janneau

This right here is a long-aged expression from the Janneua Armagnac house, which was distilled all the way back in 1947! If you love looking into the past via the medium of marvellous spirits,…  More info

Janneau Armagnac 1947
$927.85
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Baron de Sigognac VS

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sigognac

Classic VS Armagnac from Baron de Sigognac, as far as brandy goes, this is exceptional value for money!  More info

Baron de Sigognac VS
1
$34.19
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Baron de Sigognac 20 Year Old

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sigognac

A gold award winner at the 2005 International Spirits Challenge. This superb 20 year old Bas-Armagnac is made by a family that trace their roots back to the 12th Century. The Armagnac they make is…  More info

Baron de Sigognac 20 Year Old
7
$85.11

Château de Laubade VSOP Bas Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Château de Laubade

The VSOP expression of Bas Armagnac from Château de Laubade, who age their eaux-de-vie exclusively in Gascony oak casks. The Lesgourgues family have been running Château de Laubade, since it was…  More info

Château de Laubade VSOP Bas Armagnac
1
$42.99

Delord L'Authentique Bas Armagnac

70cl, 45.9%
Delord

An interesting expression from the Delord range, features Bas Armagnac which has been bottled at 45.9% ABV. Previously, Delord had only released Armagnac at 40% ABV - so we're rather excited to see…  More info

Delord L'Authentique Bas Armagnac
1
$100.30
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Delord VSOP

70cl, 40%
Delord

The VSOP Armagnac from the House of Delord in the village of Lannepax. Rich with vanilla and oak-y spices.  More info

Delord VSOP
1
$39.09

Janneau VSOP

70cl, 40%
Janneau

A blend of Armagnacs aged for at least 7 years in Montlezun oak. Janneau VSOP is packaged in a Basquaise bottle and it has a smooth, aromatic style.  More info

Janneau VSOP
1
$38.06
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Baron de Sigognac 10 Year Old

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sigognac

Beautifully crafted Bas-Armagnac from Baron de Sigognac. The company owns one short column still which is almost a century old, and it produces around 50-60 casks a year.  More info

Baron de Sigognac 10 Year Old
7
$45.20
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Marcel Trépout 1979 Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Marcel Trépout

Distilled at Château Notre-Dame in 1979, here we have a marvellously well aged Armagnac from Marcel Trépout, known for its extensive stocks of very old spirit. Top stuff for anyone who enjoys sipping…  More info

Marcel Trépout 1979 Armagnac
$92.53
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Clés des Ducs XO Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Clés des Ducs

Awesome Armagnac all the way from the famed Bas region, produced as part of the Clés des Ducs range. Here's a key fact about this XO expression: it's maturation includes at least six months in brand…  More info

Clés des Ducs XO Armagnac
5
$67.31

Sempé 18 Year Old Bas Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Le Club Des Marques

A well-aged Bas Armagnac from Sempé. Matured in oak barrels, the fresh fruit notes have been tempered by the oak, making for a mellow expression, ideal for sipping on a cold winter's evening.  More info

Sempé 18 Year Old Bas Armagnac
$56.52

Delord 15 Year Old Bas Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Delord

15 year old Bas Armagnac from Delord - though comparatively young when shown alongside other releases from Delord (their cellar seems to stretch back very far indeed), this is still very much a top…  More info

Delord 15 Year Old Bas Armagnac
$61.71

Sempé Single Barrel Cask Strength Bas Armagnac 2011

70cl, 54.1%
Le Club Des Marques

With most Armagnacs being blended, here is a chance to try a single barrel expression. This Bas Armagnac from Sempé was distilled in 2011, and was barrel aged in local Limousin oak casks and bottled…  More info

Sempé Single Barrel Cask Strength Bas Armagnac 2011
1
$66.82

Janneau Armagnac 1982

70cl, 43%
Janneau

Delicious single vintage Armagnac from the Janneau house, distilled back in 1982. This ought to make for a great birthday gift for someone born in 1982, or as an anniversary gift... Well, actually,…  More info

Janneau Armagnac 1982
$150.18

Château de Lacquy 1996

70cl, 45%
Château de Lacquy

We're full of useful facts, just like this one: the 1996 vintage Armagnac from Château de Lacquy was made using 80% Baco and 20% Ugni Blanc grapes. We're also full of less relevant but just as useful…  More info

Château de Lacquy 1996
$154.25
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Janneau 50 Year Old Golden Age

50cl, 50.9%
Janneau

A limited edition release from the Janneau Armagnac house, dubbed Golden Age. This expression has been matured for an impressive 50 years in Monlezun oak casks, allowed plenty of time for its flavour…  More info

Janneau 50 Year Old Golden Age
$335.34
$302.56

Baron de Sigognac VSOP

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sigognac

This complex, balanced VSOP Armagnac won a Silver Medal at the International Spirit Challenge in London 2004. This was aged for 6 months in new oak before 7 years in old oak. A fine digestif from top…  More info

Baron de Sigognac VSOP
1
$38.06

Samalens 1996 Bas Armagnac

70cl, 42%
Samalens

This snazzy bottle right here is a 1996 vintage Bas Armagnac from Samalens, an Armagnac house which has been in the business of making brill brandies since 1882. Safe to say that in this time they've…  More info

Samalens 1996 Bas Armagnac
$106.94

Domaine Boingnères 1972 Cépages Nobles

70cl, 47%
Domaine Boingnères

A cracking vintrage Armagnac from Domaine de Boingnères. This is a robust, full bodied, spicy spirit, distilled in 1972 from Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc and Colombard.  More info

Domaine Boingnères 1972 Cépages Nobles
$653.21

Darroze Grands Assemblage 50 Year Old Bas-Armagnac

70cl, 42%
Darroze

The Darroze Grands Assemblage collection features plenty of well aged blended Bas-Armagnac expressions, including this rich, chocolate-y 50 year old. With decadent notes of leather and smoke adding…  More info

Darroze Grands Assemblage 50 Year Old Bas-Armagnac
$318.88

Château de Lacquy 1991

70cl, 45%
Château de Lacquy

A Bas Armagnac from Château de Lacquy, distilled in 1991 (the same year as Primal Scream's 'Screamadelica' was released - no real connection between the two, but it's a good album never-the-less) and…  More info

Château de Lacquy 1991
$200.54

Delord 1986 Vieil Armagnac

50cl, 40%
Delord

The ever-wonderful Delord has treated us to another fabulous vintage, and this one was distilled all the way back in 1986. A truly great chance to try some superb well-aged Armagnac.  More info

Delord 1986 Vieil Armagnac
$66.82

Baron de Sigognac 1960

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sigognac

A 1960 vintage from the excellent Baron de Sigognac. This was made using grapes from the 30 hectares of vineyards - most of which are Ugni Blanc, the rest are Baccoà  More info

Baron de Sigognac 1960
1
$473.31

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