Mezcal guides

Different types of mezcal

Oranges are not the only fruit, and there is more than one type of mezcal.

The style of mezcal will vary depending on several factors. You can categorise mezcal based on:

The production process, or how it’s made.
How long it’s aged for, like Tequila.
The type of agave used.

So let’s break down the different types of mezcal, starting with some definitions laid out in the Denominaciones de Origen (DO) for mezcal, established in the 1990s by the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM).

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Mezcal, Artesanal and Ancestral mezcals

Beyond ancestral and artesenal

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Reading time: 10 minutes

First, the CRM states that mezcal can be produced in 10 states: Oaxaca, Michoacan, Guerrero, San Luis Potosi, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Durango, Puebla and Sinaloa.

In 2016, the CRM created three different categories: Mezcal, Artesanal and Ancestral.

Mezcal, Artesanal and Ancestral mezcals

The first refers to mezcal (sometimes derisively referred to as industrial mezcal) made to the following specifications:

The agave is cooked in earthen pits, brick ovens or autoclaves, but it also can be cooked in steam ovens similar to those used in Tequila.
The agave can be milled traditionally using a tahona (a stone wheel pulled by horse or human power), or mechanically (including the use of a diffuser) to release the juices.
It can then be fermented in wooden containers, masonry basins, or stainless steel with cultured or natural yeasts.
For distillation, you can use alembic pot stills of copper or stainless steel, as well as column stills - an efficient, cheaper way to produce a high-ABV spirit.
This style is not very traditional and isn’t well-regarded by enthusiasts. It accounts for only about 7% of mezcal production.

Artesanal mezcal must be made to the following standards:

The agave must be cooked in earthen pits or clay ovens. The heat source is not specified, you can use steam or hot rocks heated by fire.
Mechanical milling is permitted.
Fermentation, however, must be traditional. That means animal skins, pits or tanks made of stone, earth, tree trunks, masonry basins (concrete or earthen tanks), or wood. Only wild yeasts are permitted (which means fermentation can take up to 15 days) but may include the fibre of the maguey or agave (bagazo).
Distillation must take place in stills heated with direct fire (wood or gas). They can be made from copper, clay, or wood.
The vast majority of mezcal production, around 92%, is Artesanal.

To create a mezcal using the Ancestral method, you must adhere to these rules:

The agave must be cooked in earthen pits.
It must be crushed using a tahona.
The rules for fermentation are the same as they are for an Artesanal mezcal,
However, only a clay still heated by direct fire is permitted for distillation.
Ancestral mezcal is the most expensive, inefficient system, but its tradition and consideration give it a considerable reputation. It accounts for just 1% of mezcal production.

The ancestral process is the most common. Image credit: Denver & Liely.

Beyond ancestral and artesenal

There’s also mezcal abocado con. Abocado means ‘easy to drink’. This refers to a mezcal with something added after distillation, like herbs, fruit, or a worm (see here). Meanwhile, Mezcal destilado con is a mezcal flavoured with botanicals and protein, which are hung inside the still during distillation.

Mezcal pechuga, for example, would typically involve redistilling mezcal with chicken or rabbit as well as herbs, fruit, and spices. This would usually be for special occasions, like a wedding, and today you can get vegan versions which use nuts in place of meat. You might think it just sounds incredibly odd to distil chicken (?!) into a spirit, but the result is not a finger-lickin’ good rotisseries style mezcal, but a rich, complex botanical spirit with an unctuous texture.

As producers have to pay to become a member of the CRM and use its terms, there is the spirit made all over Mexico that we would recognise as mezcal in every way but can’t legally be called mezcal. Not that many of the local distillers mind, particularly. They can be grouped under a broader term of destilado de agave along with a host of other agave-based spirits. The small-batch products from Sin Gusano and El Distillado are good examples of this.

An example of a joven mezcal. Image credit: Dos Hombres Mezcal

Based on ageing process

Mezcal can also be grouped by the length of time the spirit was aged in a categorisation process that mirrors Tequila.

Joven: The clear, unaged variety. Also known as blanco or white mezcal. Bottled immediately after distillation or aged for less than two months. We love this style because it offers the purest taste of the agave and the production process, showcasing all the spirit's natural flavours and aromas, including mezcal’s characteristic smokiness.

Reposado: Staw-coloured with some cask influence. Aged in wooden barrels for anywhere from two to twelve months. Reposado mezcal is matured enough to start the development of flavours of wood, vanilla, and spices, while still retaining the distinct agave characteristics.

Añejo: Darker and deeper. Aged for at least one year in wooden barrels. Añejo mezcal’s extended ageing period creates a greater infusion of wood characteristics, resulting in a smooth, rich, and complex spirit. Ideal for whisky or brandy lovers looking to get into the category who appreciate oak-driven flavours.

Extra Añejo: The most rare. A relatively new category. Refers to mezcal aged for more than three years. Extra Añejo’s will typically be the most expensive mezcals, with a deep integration of wood, agave, and additional flavour notes developed over the extended ageing process.

Madurado en vidrio: A Spanish term that translates to “aged in glass”. Surprise surprise, the spirit is stored in glass containers to age. Ageing in glass maintains the purity and original profile of the spirit compared to ageing in barrels which matures and develops flavours in the spirit. This method ensures the original nuances of the agave and the distillation process shine through without alteration, particularly useful for single-varietal mezcals.

Based on agave varieties

One of the many joyous things about mezcal is the sheer variety of agave that can be used in its production. Tequila is limited to the blue weber variety. But mezcal? You can play with more than 30 varieties.

Each type of agave matures at different rates and grows in varying conditions, influencing the scarcity, production cost, and ultimately the flavour of the mezcal.

Now this is only really useful as a sub-classification, as ageing will reduce the pure influence of the agave plant. So categorising by agave species comes into its own with Joven mezcals as every agave has its own unique profile. Or you could say, terroir...

Here’s a snapshot of the kind of agave plants used in mezcal.

Espadín: The bedrock of the industry, espadín is the most common type of agave used for mezcal production. It’s the base of around 90% of all mezcals thanks to the fact it’s relatively easy to cultivate, matures quickly (in about 7 to 10 years), and is widely available. The flavour varies greatly because there’s so much espadín grown across Mexico and so much variety in fermentation and distillation process. Generally, you can expect herbal or vegetal undertones, as well as some sweetness like tropical fruits (pineapple and mango) honey, and vanilla.

Cuixe: Also known as maguey cuishe, this type of agave grows wild in various regions with distinctive tall, thin forms and produces a cylindrical, stalk-shaped piña. It yields mezcal with unique herbal, spicy, and sometimes mineral flavours.

Sierra Negra: A wild agave that takes up to 25 years to mature. It was once regularly cultivated many years ago but its long maturation period and over-production saw it fall out of favour. Maguey arroqueno is very similar in size, shape, and character, so these varieties are often grouped together.

Tepeztate: Maguey tepeztate (or tepextate) is another wild agave that takes up to 25 years to mature. Despite all odds, it flourishes best on steep rocky cliffs and towards the end of its life, it creates a beautiful rich yellow flower. Its production has been limited due to concerns about its sustainability, but the agave is in demand for the complex and flavourful mezcal with floral, spicy, and earthy notes.

Tobalá: A wild agave variety that grows in high altitudes. That means it’s difficult to harvest, with low yields. It also takes about 12-15 years to grow. Mezcals made from this species are typically expensive and in demand, producing fruity and sweet spirits.

Ensamble (or blend): Ensamble mezcals refer to a blend of different agave types used in one batch. Because of the variety, there is no singular flavour profile, and the character of these mezcals is down to the skill of the mezcalero (mezcal producer) in balancing the characteristics of each agave type.