Palo Cortado sherry is one of the wine world's most enigmatic treasures, often described as the "mystery sherry." Straddling the characteristics of two traditional types of sherries—Amontillado and Oloroso—it offers a unique and captivating sensory experience. Hailing from the sun-drenched region of Andalucía in southern Spain, Palo Cortado has intrigued and delighted wine enthusiasts and sommeliers alike.
The inception of a Palo Cortado sherry is shrouded in an element of serendipity. It begins its journey similarly to a Fino or Manzanilla, with the flor (a natural layer of yeast) forming on the surface of the ageing wine, promoting biological ageing. However, at some unpredictable point, the flor begins to die off or is purposely eliminated, and the sherry begins to undergo oxidative ageing, akin to an Oloroso. This unexpected transition results in a sherry that exhibits the aromatic delicacy of an Amontillado combined with the richer, rounder body of an Oloroso.
On the palate, Palo Cortado is a labyrinth of flavours. It unfurls with the nutty nuances typical of Amontillado, like almonds and hazelnuts, but evolves with the depth and structure reminiscent of Oloroso, bringing in notes of dried fruits, leather, and tobacco. The finish is typically long and complex, providing a warm and enveloping mouthfeel. Its relatively dry profile, combined with its complexity, makes it a versatile partner for a wide range of foods, from aged cheeses and cured meats to richer dishes like game and well-seasoned stews.
The unpredictable nature of Palo Cortado's development makes it a rare and highly sought-after type of sherry. Some assert that true Palo Cortado formation is an accident of nature, while others believe that careful winemaking techniques can influence its production. Regardless, the scarcity and the intricate balance of flavours command higher prices in comparison to other sherry styles.
Several eminent bodegas in the Jerez region produce noteworthy Palo Cortado sherries. Bodegas like "González Byass," "Lustau," and "Valdespino" offer versions that are celebrated for their depth, complexity, and finesse. Each bodega's rendition, influenced by its unique solera system, terroir, and winemaking philosophy, adds to the tapestry of Palo Cortado's multifaceted identity.
Palo Cortado sherry stands as a testament to the marvels of winemaking, where nature's whims and human intervention coalesce to create liquid art. Its paradoxical nature—combining the best of two sherry worlds—has made it a subject of fascination and reverence among sherry lovers. In a realm where wine often tells stories of its origin, Palo Cortado narrates a tale of serendipity, tradition, and unparalleled elegance.