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Bourbon Whiskey

Bourbon is the most prominent style of whiskey produced in the USA. It dates back to the 18th century when whisky-loving Irish and Scottish immigrants brought their distillation knowledge to Kentucky and Tennessee especially. Though they weren’t all from Scotland or Ireland, Jacob Beam, better known as Jim Beam, was from Germany and began distilling in Kentucky in the 1790s, and Evan Williams (now a brand owned by Heaven Hill) as you might guess from his name was Welsh.

There wasn’t much barley about but there was a native crop, corn (maize), and rye thrived here too so they used these to make their whiskey. Kentucky, in particular, had lots of fertile land, perfect for growing rye and corn, and distilling the cereals was a useful way of preserving them and also formed a kind of currency on the frontier where cash of any kind was in short supply. Yee haw! Whiskey money!

This basic spirit distilled mainly from corn and rye in time evolved into what we know as bourbon. No one is quite sure why America’s premier spirit is named after the French royal family. Some people say it’s from Bourbon County in Kentucky, which was named in honour of the French who had been so helpful in overthrowing British rule of the American colonies. While others say it was from Bourbon Street in New Orleans, a major port from which whiskey was shipped.

However it got its name, by the 19th century there was a thriving industry based largely in Kentucky and Tennessee making spirits from corn, rye and other grains like wheat. One of the pioneering producers was the Reverend Elijah Craig (1743-1808) whose name still appears on whiskey bottles to this day. These ‘whiskeys’ would have almost certainly been drunk young with no or very little wood ageing. What is known today as ‘white dog.’ On the long journey down to the Ohio river to New Orleans, it was noted how the spirit had mellowed in cask, and so an aged style began to be preferred. This began to supplant the popularity of imported spirits like Cognac in early cocktails like the Old Fashioned and Sazerac.

In 1834 a Scottish chemist called James Crow invented the sour mash process. Or it might be better to say, he perfected and explained the process as it was probably something that some distillers were doing before. In the sour mash process a portion of the last ferment is added to the next to get things going rather like with sourdough bread, only better because you end up with whiskey. This raises the acidity of the fermentation which makes it hard for bacteria to survive so you’re less likely to get spoilage. The sour mash process meant getting a consistent ferment every time.

Pioneering names like E.H. Taylor (founder of the company that would become Buffalo Trace) and James E. Pepper were building names for themselves in the 1860s and 1870s. During the American Civil War (1861-1865) many distilleries thrived supplying the Union army. Following the end of the war, distillers began investing in new technology like the Coffey Still meaning they could produce whiskey more efficiently. Adulteration and counterfeiting were rife but the growth of bottling meant that producers could build brands by ensuring a consistent product. The whiskey industry was becoming regulated too (though there was no definition of exactly what ‘bourbon’ was). An act of 1897 specified a minimum age of four years for whisky labelled ‘bottled in bond’ (ie. aged without having to pay taxes until it was sold), and a minimum strength of 100 proof (50% ABV), and two years for ‘straight whisky.’

This embryonic whiskey superpower was wiped out when Prohibition came in force in January 1920. Six distillers including Brown-Forman, one of today’s giants, however, managed to keep going by making what was termed ‘medicinal’ alcohol. Sometimes old bottles of Prohibition bourbon turn up at auction and go for a lot of money. When Prohibition was repealed in 1933, there were still a few firms distilling but there was very little aged stock and furthermore Americans had got a taste for Scotch whisky in the meantime. Then it was the Second World War and distilleries were turned over to military use like making kerosene.

The authors of old cocktail books from the ‘40s and early ‘50s, like Bernard de Voto’s The Hour lament the lack of good aged American whiskey at the time. It wasn’t easy to get hold of. But as the industry built up stocks, bourbon boomed in ‘50 and ‘60s America as the country itself prospered after the war. This was the Mad Men era of Old Fashioneds and long lunches. What is and isn’t bourbon was still very loosely regulated until 4 May 1964 when the United States Congress passed a resolution stating that “Bourbon Whiskey is a Distinctive Product of the United States and is unlike other types of alcoholic beverages, whether foreign or domestic.” It also set out that bourbon had to be made from a minimum of 51% corn and, here’s the really important bit, aged in charred new oak barrels at 125 proof (62.5% ABV) or less. Before that, bourbon might be aged in used casks. What it didn’t specify is exactly how long the liquid had to spend in oak, something we’ll come on to shortly.

But by the ‘70s as younger drinkers turned to wine and vodka, bourbon and its cousin rye whiskey became deeply unfashionable. Distilleries closed and the industry consolidated, only to be revived in the late ‘90s and ‘00s as a new generation of drinkers discovered the joys of dark spirits. Today, there are dozens of young brands, some of which even have their own distillery, and the bourbon’s capital, Louisville, Kentucky is a popular tourist destination.

Bourbon’s rather chaotic history means that though many old brands have been revived, there’s usually very little link between the pre-Prohibition distillery and the modern product. Furthermore the proliferation of new names without their own aged whiskey means that it’s not always clear what is made from bought-in stock and what has been distilled by the brand. It’s not really a problem as long as you take most bourbon origin stories, new and old, with a healthy pinch of salt. Trust your taste buds.

So what is bourbon today? As per the 1964 ruling, it must be made from 51% corn and aged in new charred American oak barrels. There are other rules, the main ones being that it can’t be distilled to more than 160 proof (80% ABV), it can’t go into barrels higher than 125 proof (62.5% ABV) and it must be bottled at a minimum of 80 proof 40% ABV. As long as it has spent any amount of time in new charred oak barrels, which could be as little as months, then it can be classed as bourbon but to be classed as ‘straight bourbon’, it must spend two years ageing. As EU and UK laws state that whiskey must be aged for a minimum of three years, much of what is classed as whiskey in the US can’t be sold as such here. Finally, here’s the big one: as long as you follow the rules, you can make bourbon anywhere in the US, it doesn’t just have to come from Kentucky.

Most bourbon will contain rye, wheat and barley as well as corn in varying amounts. Distillers tend to use enzymes to release fermentable sugars from starch, something that is not allowed in Scotland. Column stills are ubiquitous but there are some mavericks like Woodford Reserve that use pot stills.

Right, that was a bit of an epic, wasn’t it? Probably time for a drink. Mine’s a Manhattan. Nowadays, there’s an amazing amount of diversity in the category from simple whiskeys that are great with Coke or ginger ale, to complex and highly prized bottlings that disappear as soon as they arrive in our warehouse. Bourbon’s mixed mashbill means that you get sweet, smooth sippers or high rye examples that are as spicy as hell.

Finally, a word on spelling. Whiskey is almost always spelt with an ‘e’ in the US but there are maverick producers such as Maker’s Mark in Kentucky and Balcones who spell it ‘whisky’ so don’t be alarmed.

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Bourbon Bourbon

70cl, 40.4%
Bourbon Bourbon

Bourbon Bourbon binds the brilliance of bourbon and bourbon biscuits beautifully. Triumphs of alliteration aside, this fantastic expression features Kentucky bourbon infused with actual, full-on,…  More info

Bourbon Bourbon
22
$35.86
$30.73
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1792 Small Batch

75cl, 46.9%
Barton 1792

All the way back in 1792, Kentucky officially became a state. Many moons later, 1792 Small Batch bourbon was named after that very same year. As it happens, it's a Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey.…  More info

1792 Small Batch
49
$42.51
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Angel's Envy

70cl, 43.3%
Angel's Envy

Angel's Envy is a rather splendid bourbon that has interestingly been finished in Port casks! The combination of the vanilla-y richness with the sweet, sticky Port notes (which really come to the…  More info

Angel's Envy
22
$58.48
$53.35

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old

70cl, 45%
Eagle Rare

All the way from the legendary Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky, comes Eagle Rare 10 Year Old. A spectacular Kentucky straight Bourbon whiskey, matured for at least a decade before…  More info

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old
79
$41.49

Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon (58.4%)

70cl, 58.4%
Wild Turkey

Wild Turkey's Rare Breed Bourbons are bottled at cask strength, and are often absolutely staggering stuff. The bottles have had a little redesign recently, and look very stylish indeed - though the…  More info

Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon (58.4%)
15
$53.35
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Widow Jane 10 Year Old

70cl, 45.5%
Widow Jane

An excellent 10 year old bourbon from the Widow Jane range. This expression is distilled in Kentucky and brought down to bottling strength in New York with water from the Widow Jane mine in…  More info

Widow Jane 10 Year Old
3
$83.05
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Bourbon Tasting Set

15cl, 46.6%
Drinks by the Dram

The ultimate tasting set for bourbon lovers. This features five stonkingly good 3cl bourbon samples from producers big and small all across the United States of America. Makes a great gift for the…  More info

Bourbon Tasting Set
4
$30.73

Maker's Mark 46

70cl, 47%
Maker's Mark

The first line extension to the Maker's Mark range since the '50s, Maker's 46 is essentially the standard expression with added spice. This bourbon was not intended to compete with the core…  More info

Maker's Mark 46
43
$37.96
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Wild Turkey Longbranch

70cl, 43%
Wild Turkey

Wild Turkey's Longbranch is the tasty result of a collaboration between master distiller Eddie Russell, and the distillery's creative director, who just so happens to be Matthew McConaughey. (Yes,…  More info

Wild Turkey Longbranch
13
$38.98
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Bulleit Bourbon

70cl, 45%
Bulleit

Enjoy Bulleit Bourbon like the Americans do! Previously it has been bottled at 40% ABV for the UK market, but now you can get the Frontier Whiskey at 45% ABV, just like they have in Kentucky. A…  More info

Bulleit Bourbon
94
$29.76
$27.65
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Michter's US*1 Bourbon

70cl, 45.7%
Michter's Distillery

The US*1 Bourbon from Michter's in Louisville, Kentucky, is made in small batches, typically comprised of no more than two dozen barrels. Top quality stuff, brimming with caramel, vanilla and fruit…  More info

Michter's US*1 Bourbon
20
$56.33
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Black & Gold 11 Year Old Bourbon Whiskey

70cl, 45%
Black & Gold

Black & Gold is a particularly snazzy bourbon which has enjoyed 11 years of maturation, allowing it to develop a rewarding, complex and overall excellent flavour profile. It was aged in…  More info

Black & Gold 11 Year Old Bourbon Whiskey
14
$61.51
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Four Roses Single Barrel 100 Proof

70cl, 50%
Four Roses

Four Roses founder Paul Jones Jr. became undoubtedly smitten by a beautiful woman who he proposed to. She said she would let him know her answer by attending an evening ball with a four rose corsage.…  More info

Four Roses Single Barrel 100 Proof
67
$45.15
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Colonel EH Taylor Small Batch

70cl, 50%
Colonel EH Taylor

This small batch bourbon is named after Colonel Edmund Haynes Taylor, an incredibly important figure in bourbon's history from the 1800s who owned a whole host of distilleries and innovated…  More info

Colonel EH Taylor Small Batch
38
$102.53
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Buffalo Trace

70cl, 40%
Buffalo Trace

Buffalo Trace is the flagship bourbon for the eponymous distillery made from corn, rye and malted barley. It’s aged in new oak barrels in historic old warehouses. The award-winning bourbon is batched…  More info

Buffalo Trace
167
$25.60

Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon

70cl, 45%
Four Roses

Four Roses Small Batch is a step up from the classic Four Roses Bourbon, showcasing the variety of mashbills that the distillers have to work with in Lawrenceburg - and their talents at making them…  More info

Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon
28
$31.75
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Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon

70cl, 47%
Elijah Craig

Elijah Craig has long been a favourite bourbon of many whiskey enthusiasts - to the point where their stocks of 12 year old bourbon have been under a lot of pressure. The producers made the decision…  More info

Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon
25
$46.93
$46.16

Four Roses Bourbon (1L)

100cl, 40%
Four Roses

It's a one litre bottling of the fantastic Four Roses Bourbon! A legendary whiskey from Kentucky with a long history, Four Roses Bourbon is a reliably tasty expression suitable for sipping neat or…  More info

Four Roses Bourbon (1L)
$34.82

Woodford Reserve Kentucky Bourbon

70cl, 43.2%
Woodford Reserve

The mashbill for Woodford Reserve features a high percentage of rye: 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malt. The whiskey is also unusual for being triple distilled and having the lowest proof upon entering…  More info

Woodford Reserve Kentucky Bourbon
187
$38.98

Wild Turkey 101

70cl, 50.5%
Wild Turkey

This bottling of Wild Turkey has been aged for at least six years before coming out of the barrel at 109 proof. The whiskey is only diluted slightly before bottling at 101 proof with plenty of pep.  More info

Wild Turkey 101
127
$32.06
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Woodford Reserve Double Oaked

70cl, 43.2%
Woodford Reserve

It's finally here - the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey. This expression begins life being aged in the same way as the classic Woodford Reserve, but following this, it…  More info

Woodford Reserve Double Oaked
81
$58.47
$56.33

Rebel Bourbon Tawny Port Barrel Finish

70cl, 45%
Rebel Yell

The team behind Rebel whiskey has shown that it enjoys using cask-finishes before (with the likes of the French Oak and Cognac Cask expressions), and now we've got another one on our hands right…  More info

Rebel Bourbon Tawny Port Barrel Finish
1
$43.03

New Riff Straight Bourbon

75cl, 50%
New Riff

A Kentucky Straight Bourbon from the ever-wonderful New Riff! There's a fairly generous amount of rye in the mash bill, 65% corn, 30% rye, and 5% malted barley, so expect a good helping of spice…  More info

New Riff Straight Bourbon
3
$59.44

Knob Creek Small Batch 9 Year Old

70cl, 50%
Knob Creek

Knob Creek is a small batch bourbon produced by Jim Beam, distilled in a more traditional style and aged 9 nine years. It is named for the area in Kentucky where Abraham Lincoln grew up, it is said…  More info

Knob Creek Small Batch 9 Year Old
58
$34.31
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Blanton's Special Reserve

70cl, 40%
Blanton's

Special Reserve is a lower strength single barrel bourbon from Blanton's. Each bottle is hand-filled, hand-labeled, hand-sealed and individually numbered. Please Note: Unfortunately, the wax atop…  More info

Blanton's Special Reserve
13
$256.49
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