Amari and aperitifs

An amari is a particular kind of Italian or Italian-style liqueur. The word ‘amaro’ (amari is the plural) means ‘bitter’ in Italian. They are made all over the peninsula by steeping herbs, spices, fruit, and vegetables in alcohol, then sweetening and diluting the concoction. The best known is Campari but each part of Italy has its own amaro, like Fernet Branca from Milan, or Amaro Montenegro from Bologna. These brands have their roots in the 19th century, but Italian families and monasteries have been making versions for much longer. Amari balance their high levels of bitterness with sugar and alcohol, which varies between 11% ABV for Aperol to 39% ABV for Fernet Branca. The mighty Fernet is also the bitterest of the big names. Similar aperitifs are made in France with names such as Suze, made with gentian, and St. Germain which contains elderflower.

Until recently, they were seen as a bit old-fashioned, the sort of things drunk by old men in cafes alongside an espresso. But in recent years they have become fashionable with bartenders all over the world. This has inspired people outside Italy to make their own. There are now a number of boutique producers in America and Britain, and even specialist amari bars like Amor y Amargo in New York.

Amari makes great cocktail ingredients. Try mixing different versions in a Negroni, Boulevardier or Americano.