Today marks the unveiling of Diageo Rare Series. I was treated to a sneak preview of this prestigious new collection with Diageo’s master blender Dr. Craig Wilson, and senior global ambassador Ewan Gunn.
Following on from the recent release of Talisker Magma (the distillery’s oldest ever single malt), Diageo continues to pull out all the stops when it comes to raiding the most sacred corners of its warehouses.
There are circa 10 million casks from over 30 distilleries in the group’s care, and the Rare Series promises to bring some serious gems to bottle, including other “oldest evers”…
The five whiskies in the new Diageo Rare Series
The first five whiskies in the new Rare Series
Bringing together some of the most distinguished and rare single malts in Diageo’s care, this collection includes a mighty 55-year-old from ghost distillery, Glenury Royal – the group’s oldest ever single malt, plus the oldest ever distillery bottling from Caol Ila!
Clynelish 1983 Rare Series
42 years old, matured in American oak hogsheads, bottled at 49.5% ABV. A release of 160 bottles, price tag: £3,600.
Glenury Royal 1970 Rare Series
55 years old, matured in American oak hogsheads and married in European oak puncheons, bottled at 62.4% ABV. A release of 232 bottles, priced £5,700.
Blair Athol 1991 Rare Series
34 years old, matured in refill European oak, finished in Pedro Ximénez seasoned new American oak hogsheads, bottled at 50.8% ABV. A release of 347 bottles, price: £800.
Talisker 1992 Rare Series
33 years old, matured in refill American and European oak, long finished (over 20 years) in Amoroso sherry seasoned hogsheads, bottled at 60.1% ABV. 331 bottles, £1,200.
Caol Ila 1983 Rare Series
42 years old, matured in refill American oak, married in European oak puncheons, bottled at 56.4% ABV. 318 bottles, £2,700.
We attended the launch event to taste the new whiskies
Tasting the whiskies
A mysterious invite recently came my way for a “Secret tasting in London for Rare Series, a new, evolving collection of distinguished Scotch whiskies of impeccable provenance, uncovering Scotland’s scattered treasures and telling the story of its rich whisky heritage.” Who wouldn’t want to check that out on a Tuesday evening?
Far from the usual Mayfair hotels or Soho bars that often play host to such occasions, the location was disclosed, and I was destined for a historic film studio in Camden Town. The scene: a luxurious picnic in Scotland. With a sweeping Highland landscape projected as the backdrop, and mist around our feet, the whiskies rested proudly upon a granite rock plinth.
These whiskies are meant to be showstoppers and were presented with flair. A long table, abundant with beautiful displays of flora, fruit, and more, provided visual interpretations of each whisky’s profile. You really couldn’t change the vibe any further from that of Camden High Street, where I’d recently arrived from.
These are whiskies I could sit and ponder over for hours. Perhaps I’d try and savour them too long, in the knowledge that they’re unrepeatable. They’re rare, prestigious, luxurious and likely many will be destined for collections. But this was a whistlestop tour, sharing a rare moment with “scattered treasures from Scotland’s rich whisky heritage”.
There were exquisite canapés tailored to pair with each whisky. I can hear you all crying, “sacrilege”, but the fact is, whisky and food can work – even in the most prestigious circumstances. I did, however, feel that the rare drops of whisky deserved my full attention, and tried to enjoy my fancy snacks at the end of each sample, before moving on to the next. This means that my tasting notes are a little patchy.
The Glenury Royal 1970 Rare Series is a standout release
The reviews
Clynelish 1983 Rare Series
At 42 years old, this single malt showcases classic waxy, floral Clynelish character coupled with expert maturation. Layered with supple candlewax (I also got hints of Barbour jacket, but that could just be down to the Highland backdrop?), an abundance of vanilla, honeysuckle, and hints of pineapple, Madeleines, then gentle notes of white pepper warmth, a few drops of water opened up more floral fruit.
Glenury Royal 1970 Rare Series
55 years old is impressive. I’m betting there must be others of this kind of age in the Diageo stash, but this one in particular stood out to be bottled as the group’s oldest single malt bottling to date. Why? Well, for one, Glenury is a gem in itself. Established back in 1825, it closed over 40 years ago. It was demolished just over 30 years ago, and now housing has been built on the site – the definition of a ghost distillery. Secondly, it’s pretty exceptional for a whisky of this age to weigh in at such a mighty ABV (62.4%). How? Essentially, a glitch in Scotland’s humidity matrix. Or in other words, a particular, special spot in the warehouse that Craig Wilson keeps a very close eye on. This isn’t all oak furniture and age; it’s vibrant, creamy, and sweet. There are notes of golden syrup and brittle toffee, mellow old grist and gentle oak, apples, pears, and patisserie sweetness. Light notes of leather and sweet tobacco join earthy, floral vanilla for the finish.
Blair Athol 1991 Rare Series
It’s rare that Blair Athol is bottled at this kind of age (34 years old), but as Ewan Gunn puts it, “It’s really unusual. I think it actually wears this kind of age exceptionally well”. I have to agree. It’s sweet and juicy, with notes of estery fruit, syrup, and caramel. Chewy spice and peppery warmth gather at the edges, while crème brûlée and dense treacle toffee keep things rich and robust.
Talisker 1992 Rare Series
Unmistakably Talisker, but refined and distinguished at an impressive 33 years old. Rich and intense, but not in the peppery, face full of sea-spray way of younger bottlings, this has notes of red fruit, hibiscus, a touch of dandelion and burdock. There’s gentle coastal brine and camphor, waxed jacket, and flinty minerality, with sweet, jammy fruit, and then a note of raspberry balsamic vinegar. All wrapped up with a seared Scottish scallop. Win.
Caol Ila 1983 Rare Series
42 years old, and the same vintage as the Clynelish. Gunn pointed out how rare it is in itself to have any whisky from this vintage. It was the height of the Whisky Loch; many distilleries fell silent or paused production in the 1980s, so surviving stock is scarce. This whisky made for a splendid finale, all sweet and zesty, softly salty, with waxy peat. There are notes of rooibos tea, Crêpes Suzette, creamy lemon meringue, apple tart, floral dark chocolate truffles, caramel pretzels, and salted, smoked, honeyed almonds.
