Well, well, well... What do we have here? Only an exceptionally exciting release from Island distillery Talisker made all the more marvellous because it's the first in a series that forms an “exploration of exceptional sherry cask finishes”. When eventually released, the whole Bodega Series will give lucky sippers an insight into historic wineries of the legendary 'Sherry Triangle'. First up? 40 year old Talisker made with help from Delgado Zuleta, one of the world’s oldest sherry makers.
It's not just the whisky that's four decades old either: the Amontillado sherry previously in the butts was also at least 40 years old. That's a LOT of flavour packed inside that bottle, remarkable considering the finishing period was just three months (or so)!. It's all dialled back smoke and amped up fruit – if that sounds like your dram you need to move speedily as only 2,000 bottles have been released globally.
Mild and rich, with light nose prickle. The sweet fruitiness of sultanas and pears in syrup, then orange peel, framed in oiled sandalwood, with a salty suggestion of seaweed or sea air in the middle, on a base of faintly smoky raw sugar. Water brings up a buttery note of short crust pastry and a waxy hint.
At natural strength, the texture is very fine; oil-smooth and lightly coating. The taste starts sweetly fruity - white grapes, more sultanas - then becomes sea-salty and savoury, before finishing hot and peppery. As the sweet waves of flavour roll out across the palate, they break over a hint of that Talisker trademark, hot chilli spice, and some scented smoke. There's great balance and vigour throughout. Adding water may tame the fire a little, but the lion remains wild at heart.
Long and warming, with a late, great tongue-tingling nuttiness in the embers as the fire slips down, and a last smoky trace of snuffed candle
An absolute treat of a dram – and an epic opportunity to experience the craft from a lesser-known bodega. We're excited to see what's next...
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