Nose: A malty and crisp nose opens with sherried spice, soft toffee pennies, hazelnut, and condensed milk. As it develops aromas appear that make me think I was standing by a bakery door in an orchard, with puff pastry, vanilla, Granny Smith apples, Conference pears, fresh dough, and buttercream. Figs, plums, and blueberries bring more fruitiness to the core of the nose with some orange rind, foam bananas, and dried cranberries also present for good measure. Light floral and herbal notes waft away throughout alongside a helping of posh dark chocolate, salty porridge, and pipe tobacco adding some intriguing depth.
Palate: The delivery is viscous, arriving somewhere pleasant between creamy and oily. The 46% ABV gives this an enjoyable heft and presence. Aromatic spice from nutmeg and clove, as well as some freshly cracked black pepper, cuts through some of that creamy caramel and vanilla combinations that carry over from the nose and balance nicely with darker fruits and some cooked apple. Youth and wine casks bring some occasional spikiness that needs some development, but there’s enough personality and composure here for them to give way for notes of marzipan, pears poached in red wine, chocolate digestives, burnt orange rind, and jam.
Finish: Medium in length with a pang of drying bitter oak, some syrupy anise, peppermint, and a lingering reminder of the plump orchard fruits and dairy cream that comprises the new make’s character.