Blended
Scotland
Johnnie Walker Black Label has a long history. It dates back to the late 19th century when John Walker & Sons of Kilmarnock had three blends in ascending order of age and price: Old Highland, Special Old Highland, and Extra Special Old Highland. These had white, red, and black labels respectively, and were known by their colour. Then in 1906, the three blends were relaunched as White Label, a five year old, Red Label, a nine year old, and Black Label, a 12 year old.
While Red Label would lose its age statement and White Label disappear altogether, Black Label is still a 12 year old blend – though it did go through a phase without an age statement. Its prestige status was trumped with the launch of the super swanky Blue Label in the late 1980s, but Black Label has never lost its cache. Across the world today, a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label is a recognised currency and symbol of excellence.
The classic 12 Year Old Black Label is a blend majoring on Diageo’s Four Corners of Scotland distilleries Clynelish in the Highlands, Cardhu on Speyside, malt from Glenknichie and grain from Cameronbridge with a little smoke from Caol Ila.
Winter spice and treacle, hints of white pepper and a little citrus.
Rich and full with notes of wood smoke and dry spice, hints of barley and cereal with creamy toffee and a distinct herbal note.
Quite fruity and long with a note of sultanas and mixed peels.
I will only quote the worlds pre-eminent whisky expert Jim Murray from his 2020 review. And I agree. "If there is a silkier delivery on the market today, I have not seen it: this is sublime stuff with the grains singing the sweetest hymns as they go down, taking with them a near perfection of weighty smoke lightened by brilliantly balanced barley which leans toward both soft apple and creme brulee; those reassuringly rigid grains re-emerge and with them the most juicy Speyside malts imaginable; the lovely sheen to the finish underlines the good age of the whiskies used; here it is: one of the world's most masterful whiskies back in all it's complex glory." Now if you know more about whisky than Jim, I suggest you profit off it by producing your own annual whisky bible.
Very little going on in terms of arrival, it's the very definition of "smooth" - lacking all character and distinctive flavor. The 12 years of aging make sure the grain alcohol in the blend is subdued to the point where it's not offensive. There is a bit of a peppery tang and some pleasant smoke in the finish but there's very little flavor outside of that. A drop of water doesn't do much apart from intensifying a little what you've already tasted. For something that costs so much and still shifts such crazy volumes, it's a prime example of a product that sells on momentum, perceived status and overly expensive branding. If it didn't cost as much as it does, it would be at least 3 stars, but for the very poor flavor to pricing ratio, I can't really do more than 2.
I used to dislike Johnnie Black as I thought it was harsh, cheap and oily tasting. I must say that the bottle I got for my 40th birthday (personalized engraved bottle from 2017) was much better than previous experiences I’ve had with Johnnie Black. I will acknowledge that this might be because it appears that as mass production continues and continues as nauseum, what they’ve added in terms of sweetness and smoothness, they’ve probably removed in “character” of the older batches of Johnnie Black. Either way though, I like the newer batches as it is a welcome change from the more complicated bottles of Johnnie Black that I’m used to. Water/Air: A few small drops...not too much, literally 7-8 drops. Aired it out for 12 minutes, one for each year of aging. Nose: Raisin, honey, toffee, caramel, a bit of wood and smoke, tiny bit of mint/menthol Palate: Thick syrupy caramel, burnt sugar, tiny smokiness and wood, very creamy...like a melting thick creamy feeling Finish: Much less bite and spice than earlier Johnnie Black, a bit salty, continued toffee and caramel I think it’s much better tasting than what I’ve experienced in the past, but for those that are nostalgic and enjoy the really complicated older scotches are going to be disappointed.
Some bottles are great, some are too briny, some are not smokey enough. Each time is a little different but when it's good, it tends to be really good and a terrific value if you can get it for around $30 or less.
Very ordinary whisky to get drunk quickly, not the one to enjoy sip by sip sitting relaxed at sofa. Any even NAS single malt I’ve tried has much more taste and character. Sorry, JW fans...
