American single malt profiled: The Virginia Distillery Co.

In part two of a deep dive into American single malt, Dave Worthington (Boutique-y Dave) turns his attentions to the Virginia Distillery Co.

Virginia Distillery Co. is a prominent craft distillery located in Lovingston, Virginia, and a founding member of the American Single Malt Commission, which fought for over a decade to secure a classified description ratified by the US government. While aligning closely with Scottish standards, the American classification does not require a minimum age of three years plus in oak barrels. However, at present, Virginia Distillery Co. does not release anything younger than five years old.

Founded in 2011, the distillery is the realisation of a passion project by George Moore, an Irishman. After a period in California working in the tech sector, Moore, an avid collector and drinker of single malts, relocated to Virginia. His vision was to craft a US-made single malt that would fuse the established traditions of Scottish whisky production with the distinct agricultural landscape and environment of Virginia.

Keeping it in the family

Sadly, George passed away in 2013 before he could see his vision realised. Construction halted, and the project was put on hold as the family grieved his sudden loss.

Following this shock, George’s wife, Angela, asked their son, Gareth, to visit Virginia to “see what your father was up to with this whisky business.” Although Gareth had no prior experience in whisky production, he was immediately captivated by the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the distillery site upon his arrival. Inspired and finally understanding his father’s vision, he called his mother to tell her he wanted to complete the project.

Initially, the company brought over aged Scottish whisky, teaspooning their own whisky into it to allow for transport, and calling it an American Blended Malt until their American Single Malt matured, with the first full release occurring in 2020. Established with a commitment to traditional Scottish whisky-making techniques adapted for the American palate and climate, the distillery has quickly gained recognition for its innovative approach and high-quality products.

The Distillery

The distillery is located on 100 acres in Virginia, and the setup resembles a traditional Scottish distillery, with one pair of copper pot stills made by Northern Fabricators in Elgin, Scotland, connected to shell-and-tube condensers. The overall design and installation were overseen by Harry Cockburn, a former distillery manager and engineer at Bowmore.

The Barley

While they grow some barley on site, they work with over 600 farmers across North America, sourcing most barley from Wisconsin and Montana, and some from Canada. They use two-row pale distiller malts and use no peated malt. Their milling room features a 1920 Boby roller mill made in England for an Edinburgh brewery. After mashing, the draff goes to a local dairy for cow feed.

Fermentation and Distillation 

The distillery utilises two different distiller’s yeast strains for fermentation, with one being the workhorse and the other providing desired esters, maintaining a minimum 72-hour temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel jacketed tanks. 

A 10,000 litre wash still, and a 6,000 litre spirit still work as a pair with a spirit cut of around 70-78% ABV that is reduced to 62.5% ABV, as defined by the US whisky category for the maximum entry proof, to later be filled into casks. After distillation, the Pot Ale is given to local farmers for fertiliser.

Cask Program and Maturation Environment 

Virginia’s subtropical climate is similar to Taiwan’s, as advised by Jim Swan, and they manage their cask program to work with the humid environment. The distinct seasonal temperature fluctuations play a significant role in the ageing process, encouraging greater interaction between the whisky and the wood, leading to faster maturation and a unique flavour development.

Approximately half of their whisky is aged in bourbon barrels, with a quarter in wine casks and another quarter in sherry casks. Once reduced, the spirit is then filled into casks to be warehoused. The maturation period for new make spirit initially ranged between four to seven years, but has been increasing over time.

At full capacity, the distillery can do 978 mashes in a year and produce over 5,300 casks.

The warmer, more humid climate found in Virginia sees an increase in losses to Angel’s Share vs. cooler climates such as Scotland’s. Losses are typically highest in the first year of ageing, averaging from 3 to 12%. Total losses vary and average as low as 12% or as high as 50% over six years.

Whisky Lines and the Solera System

Virginia Distillery Company has two main lines: the Virginia Distillery Company (VDC) line, previously called Virginia Highland Malt until the Scotch Whisky Association stepped in, is focused on cask finishing, usually ageing for five or six years in ex-bourbon barrels and then moving the whisky to finish. 

The ‘Courage & Conviction’ line, released in 2020, features new make going into casks for primary maturation, and is partially managed through a Solera system for consistency, which is also used for the VDC line.

The house style for both is orchard fruit and spice, oh, and it spells whisky without the ‘e’…

Casks used for maturation

First-fill bourbon barrels are sourced from a wealth of distilleries on their doorstep, so to speak, all level four alligator char, and also get wine casks from Spain, Portugal, and France

The Courage & Conviction line features sherry casks from Spain, with the distillery using both American white oak (Quercus alba) and Spanish oak (Quercus robur). 

The wine casks, specifically those based on Jim Swan’s STR cask method (shaved, toasted, and charred), are referred to as ‘Cuvée’ and used in the Courage and Conviction line.

The Virginia Distillery Company (VDC) line

The focus for the VDC line is finishing. There are four core bottlings, all bottled at 46.5% ABV, natural colour, and non-chill filtered. (All retailing at £49.95)

The Blue Ridge Select is the only product released using new oak. After ageing in Kentucky bourbon barrels, it is finished with toasted oak barrels from the Blue Ridge Mountains for about a year.
Aromas of rich caramel, soft vanilla and freshly baked brioche combine with flavours of bright citrus, apricot, honeyed walnuts, baking spice and toasted coconut.

The Cider Cask Finish – After ageing in bourbon barrels, it is finished in French calvados casks, premium Virginia cider barrels and Laird’s Apple Brandy barrels, inspired by old world meeting new.
Aromas of honeysuckle, while baked apple and cinnamon brightly dance on the palate.

The Cabernet Cask Select – After ageing in bourbon barrels, it is finished in various Cabernet casks, including premium Cabernet Sauvignon barrels from France and California.
Aromas of black cherry, cedar, apricot, and soft smoke meet flavours of blackberry, plum, candied ginger, and rich chocolate.

The Port Cask Reserve – After ageing in bourbon barrels, it is finished in traditional tawny port casks sourced from premium Portuguese bodegas, along with Port-style wine casks sourced in Virginia.
Scents of honeycomb, walnuts, and gingerbread are met with a burst of bright lemon, red berries, soft smoke, and cocoa on the palate.

The Courage and Conviction range

The ‘Courage and Conviction’ line, first released in 2020, focuses on new make going into casks for full maturation. George often said, ‘Have the courage of your convictions.’ It’s why once the distillery was built, they chose the name ‘Courage & Conviction’ to honour George’s vision, inherited by Angela & Gareth. There are four core bottlings, all bottled at 46% ABV, natural colour, and non-chill filtered. (All retailing at £63.95).

Courage & Conviction Signature Malt – Matured for at least six years in a host of sherry casks, bourbon barrels, and STR European red wine casks.
With notes of caramel and butterscotch, our flagship American Single Malt evolves on the palate with hints of bright red fruit, raspberry, cocoa, barrel spice and vanilla. The finish is creamy and exceptionally smooth.

Courage & Conviction Bourbon Cask – Matured for at least six years in a host of sherry casks, bourbon barrels, and STR European red wine casks.
On the nose, expect aromas of vanilla, shortbread, and a touch of cedar. The silky body brings flavours of orange oil, toasted coconut, and graham cracker on the palate. The soft finish lingers with cinnamon and mild barrel spice.

Courage & Conviction Sherry Cask – Matured for at least six years in carefully selected former sherry casks from Jerez, Spain; Pedro Ximénez, fino, and oloroso.
On the nose, you’ll pick up scents of honeycomb, apricot, bright lemon, and sugared almonds. On the palate, a silky mouthfeel melds together flavours of hazelnut, soft leather, and toffee. The finish is a slow fade of soft caramel and baking spice.

Courage & Conviction Cuvée Cask – Matured for at least six years in first-fill European red wine Cuvée casks. These casks undergo ‘STR’ treatment, meaning ‘Shave, Toast, Re-char’. This process releases beautiful sugars and aromas from the wine casks, along with additional caramel, toffee and vanilla flavours.
On the nose, expect aromas of plum, dark raspberry, rich chocolate torte and clove. The palate brings flavours of tart cherry, blood orange, cocoa, and burnt sugar. The finish has notes of candied walnuts and ginger.