{"id":51174,"date":"2023-04-19T10:14:04","date_gmt":"2023-04-19T09:14:04","guid":{"rendered":"\/blog\/post\/how-to-drink-calvados\/"},"modified":"2023-05-17T09:31:12","modified_gmt":"2023-05-17T08:31:12","slug":"how-to-drink-calvados","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.masterofmalt.com\/blog\/post\/how-to-drink-calvados\/","title":{"rendered":"How to drink Calvados"},"content":{"rendered":"

Calvados<\/a> doesn\u2019t enjoy enough time in the spotlight. Let’s correct that<\/b>\u00a0oversight. Here’s our guide on how to drink Calvados.\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

Traditional Norman techniques. Modern flavour profiles. Snappy designs. All geared towards creating authentic, tasty booze. One that can change people’s perceptions of a category. That’s the\u00a0Ch\u00e2teau de Sassy formula. One that’s working for its cider<\/a><\/span>. A couple of years ago, the family launched a Calvados brand though they’ve actually been making both cider and Calvados since 1852.\u00a0Sassy brand co-founder and ancestor, Xavier d’Audiffret Pasquier, uses old family recipes today.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Calvados might not be something you’ve had the pleasure of trying before. Here’s a\u00a0quick breakdown: it’s a type of brandy that’s made from apples and\/or pears, although the former is more prevalent. It’s considered one of the classic French brandies alongside Armagnac<\/a> and Cognac<\/a>.\u00a0But the latter tends to get all the fanfare.<\/span><\/p>\n

Locally at least, the Norman spirit is part of the culture. But there’s no giant brand flying the flag in the world market. The<\/span>\u00a0grand-sounding name might be intimidating for newcomers. But there’s nothing alienating about apples. We all grew up eating them.\u00a0<\/span>\u201cFor people who are trying to get into dark spirits, I\u2019ve often thought Calvados might be the most accessible,” Maison Sassy\u2019s UK sales manager, Alexander Darley, says. “It\u2019s fresh, clean, light, and has lots of lovely fruitiness\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

You can mix it, pair it with food, and when you drink a great Calvados neat it tastes like apples. Honestly, who the hell doesn\u2019t like apples? What we have here folks, is the opportunity to fall in love again. With a great spirit that deserves more of the spotlight. According to Darley, that\u2019s exactly the mission Maison Sassy is on. We\u2019re fully on board.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sassy

Ch\u00e2teau de Sassy<\/p><\/div>\n

Nothing but apples: how Sassy makes Calvados\u00a0<\/b><\/h5>\n

The cider is made is made at Sassy’s impressive ch\u00e2teau<\/span>. Previously, this was sent to local distilleries to make into Calvados. As the appetite for commercially available Calvados grew, the family saw an opportunity to own the whole process. Darley says hundreds of blends were sampled. There was plenty of stock to get through. This is the kind of place where there’s a 100-year-old cask under the kitchen.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Sassy method begins in the 15 hectares of organic apple orchards that surround Ch\u00e2teau de Sassy (if you are ever lucky enough to go, you\u2019ll see them from the window). There\u2019s over 30 varieties of apples there and the oldest orchard dates back a century.\u00a0There’s a mix of loam and clay soils, similar to that you might find in Bordeaux, which tempers the apple’s distinctive acidity with some sweetness. And making Calvados like this means you’re naturally adding a big fresh apple-soaked drop of terroir to the spirit if that\u2019s the kind of thing that gets you going.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Sassy are very much apple purists. UK law defines cider as containing at least 35% apple or pear juice, which may be from concentrate. But in Normandy, things are much stricter and Sassy insists on a 100% apple recipe. Everything you taste is all the result of the distillation of its small-batch cider (which takes place in a converted stable out the back), made from five apple varieties, a blend based on that 1852 family recipe.\u00a0<\/span>Pressing takes place in October and November, with slow alcoholic fermentation at 10-12\u00b0C and maturation on fine lees. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sassy

How do you like these apples?<\/p><\/div>\n

For <\/span>Sassy Fine Calvados<\/span><\/a>, a young fruity brandy\u00a0 is distilled using a column still to give the eau de vie a fresh, clean fruit taste. For the <\/span>XO<\/span><\/a>, an older, drier cider is distilled and blended with several eau-de-vie ageing from six to 10 years to create a richer, more complex spirit.\u00a0<\/span>The eau-de-vie has to spend at least two years in oak barrels by law. For the Fine Calvados, it\u2019s matured for a minimum of that time, initially in 300-litre casks before being moved to larger barrels (up to 2,000 litres), while the XO is a minimum six-years-matured. <\/span><\/p>\n

Sassy uses old barrels (40 to 80 years) that are low in tannins to accentuate the fruit notes, and also moves the eau-de-vie twice a year into different barrels to oxygenate it for a smoother mouthfeel experience. For the Fine Calvados, this sometimes includes barrels that previously contained Pommeau (a blend of apple juice and apple brandy) to further highlight the fruitiness of the eau-de-vie.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sassy

Sassy Fine Calvados, a new regular in my drinks cabinet<\/p><\/div>\n

How should you drink Calvados?<\/b><\/h5>\n

So that\u2019s how you make it. But let\u2019s say I\u2019ve already convinced you and you\u2019ve picked up a bottle of <\/span>Sassy Fine<\/span> and the <\/span>XO<\/span>, what then? How do you drink Calvados?<\/span><\/p>\n

Well, they\u2019re both very tasty neat, for a start. You can also mirror the way Calvados is enjoyed in Normandy. It\u2019s a gastronomic region and to cut through the heavy dairy diets common locally, a pear sorbet with a shot of Calva known as the Trou Normand is seen as the ideal antidote. It\u2019s also commonplace to start the day with a Calva coffee, which is exactly what it sounds like. Coffee with a shot of Calva. \u201cIf the local doctor wants to find out much you drink, he just asks how many coffees you had,\u201d Darley says. Turns out a Calva a day doesn’t quite keep the doctor away. But then Darley also says that Xavier\u2019s 96-year-old granny swears by it as the secret to long life. At the ch\u00e2teau, they make their version with a double espresso, a shot of coffee, and honey they make on-site. I’d live forever if that was my life, to be honest.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

But for a new audience, Darley thinks identifiable\u00a0 serves are the way to introduce you to the joys of Calvados. He goes on: \u201cStart with a Calva Tonic, which has a great ring to it, it\u2019s accessible and conveniently delicious. Let\u2019s face it, the concept of a digestif is not one the average punter engages in. Calvados doesn\u2019t have to just close out your meal, you can drink a Calva Tonic in a pub. Just by adding tonic, you can create some akin to what the brandy soda was for my grandparent’s generation, and it\u2019s not that bad for you either.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Twists on the classics are certainly a great way to start. Negronis<\/a>, Martinez<\/a>, Sours<\/a>, and Espresso Martinis<\/a> are just some of the cracking cocktails I\u2019ve made with Calva (it\u2019s how the cool kids say it) and the vibrant blend of sweet, sharp, and sour notes in the <\/span>Sassy Fine<\/span>, in particular, means it always brings it personality into every serve. A Normandy Boilermaker is a great idea too, particularly if you use cider from the same brand. \u201cDon\u2019t forget, no glass of cider hasn\u2019t been improved by a shot of Calva,\u201d Darley says.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sassy

Give it a shot. Maybe in some coffee. Or on a sorbet. Or with some tonic…<\/p><\/div>\n

Why shouldn’t you overlook Calvados?<\/b><\/h5>\n

It\u2019s a method that I experienced first-hand when I first tried Sassy Calvados at Coupette<\/a> (the Calvados kings in the UK, definitely go there) in London. It\u2019s clear the brand has the ambition to modernise the categories it enters, with the rise of gin in the last decade being an inspiration. It certainly went down a treat with the bartenders that night, and why not? It pairs with food and is relentlessly versatile, while the bottle actually fits in the speed rail. This is a big plus for Sassy, who worked with a design agency in London to create a stylish, sleek bottle that abandons the old world, monastic, calligraphy-covered bottles typical in Calvados. It\u2019s moving away from the members’ club, cigar-smoker reputation, and you can actually see the colour of the liquid too.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sassy is also engaging in numerous partnerships and new product development to establish some momentum for the category. Artists are engaged to create individual labels for exclusive lines in bars and stores, while the brand is also working with family friends\u00a0on limited-edition expressions. “We’re in talks with the folks at Hine Cognac and other houses, as well as whisky brands, and Churchill Port, who gave us a 500-litre white Port cask for both cider and Calvados,\u201d Darley explains. The most notable collaboration has been with Coupette, however, which now boasts its own Sassy expressions made with head bartender Andrei Marcu (seriously, go there for goodness sake).<\/span><\/p>\n

Calvados is certainly up against it. It takes a lot of time and effort to change perception, while orchards being cut down to make room for arable farming is also less than ideal increasing development. What\u2019s doubly frustrating about that is brands like Sassy are sustainable in their process by nature. The orchards have no chemical treatment, organic lawnmowers (actual sheep), and beehives to boost the ecosystem through pollination and make honey. They let the apple falls from the tree naturally, which can take years to reach peak condition, utilise waste and don\u2019t add anything artificial.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Sassy

Coupette’s a great place to head to for some Calvados inspiration<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s a process that demonstrates the reverential attitude you would have for your craft if you spent over 150 years doing it (and owned a lovely ch\u00e2teau, that can\u2019t hurt). Sassy wants to share and celebrate Calvados, but not in a manner that compromises its rich historical and cultural importance. These are family recipes with authentic Norman provenance that embrace the contemporary cocktail culture. And it\u2019s working. Slowly but surely, there are more and more interesting bottles of Calvados on back bars and cocktail menus.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We\u2019re ultimately always going to love a flavour-focused spirit with a distinctive balance of freshness and richness that mixes well and has a great back story. Particularly in the UK, seeing as the population is basically Norman anyway if they go back far enough. \u201cThe British royal family spoke French until the Tudors. We\u2019re one marathon away from being on Norman soil,\u201d Darley says. \u201cWe should be talking about Normandy like it’s Champagne. We should be talking about Calvados.\u201d It’s a conversation I’ll have any time. While drinking Calvados, obviously.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Calvados doesn\u2019t enjoy enough time in the spotlight. Let’s correct that\u00a0oversight. Here’s our guide on how to drink Calvados.\u00a0 Traditional Norman techniques. Modern flavour profiles. Snappy designs. All geared towards…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":22,"featured_media":44574,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[893],"tags":[1823],"yoast_head":"\nHow to drink Calvados | Master of Malt blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Calvados is a French brandy that's just waiting to be tasted. 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