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Armagnac

Armagnac is a place in the south west of France, to the west of Toulouse, in the historic Duchy of Gascony. There are sources reporting distillation in the region as early as 1411, but how close this would be to the modern brandy is hard to say. Certainly the Gascons have been distilling grapes here a long time.

As with Cognac, Armagnac began to assume something like its present form in the 17th and 18th century when merchants discovered the effects of ageing in oak on the local spirit. Cognac on the coast near Bordeaux looked to Britain, Holland and the wider world, and became a global industry, whereas inland Armagnac would have been relatively inaccessible until the coming of the railways in the 19th century. This explains the very different character of the two industries. Cognac is vast and global, it exports around 98% of its 180 million bottle production whereas Armagnac produces just 6 million about half of which is consumed in France.

It’s one of the most beautiful parts of France with its castles and little towns nestled in rolling countryside. Much Armagnac is still made by farmers who also make wine, keep livestock and grow maize and tobacco though there are bigger companies like Delord and Janneau which operate as negociants buying in eaux-de-vie and aged spirits.

The region covers around 2,420 hectares (compared with over 75,000 hectares in Cognac) and is divided into three parts: Bas-Armagnac, Haut-Armagnac, and Armagnac-Ténarèze. Bas-Armagnac means ‘low’ because it is less than 120 metres above sea level. Around 50-60% of production is from this sub-region and the sandy, iron-rich soils are said to produce some of the finest grapes in Armagnac. Then there is the tiny Haut-Armagnac, the high ground, up to about 200 metres above sea level, with mainly chalky soils which produce a rare delicate and fruity spirit. It makes up less than 2% of production. Finally, there's Armagnac Ténarèze making up the rest of production, around 40%, with its rich clay and chalk soils leading to a more robust spirit. A lot of Armagnac will be blends of the three regions.

The most popular grape varieties are ugni blanc, baco, folle blanche, and colombard though there are other ones allowed in production. Armagnacs are usually blends but you do see varietal expressions. Once harvested, the grapes are fermented either with wild or cultured yeast to produce a light acidic wine of about 8% ABV. This must be distilled within a few months as it cannot be preserved with sulphur which would be concentrated during distillation.

The distillation process is unusual and worth looking at in some detail. In the 18th century, Armagnac would have been made with pot stills but in the early 19th century a unique style of column still was introduced. This is now the standard for the region though one of the biggest producers, Janneau, is unusual in using Cognac-style pot stills and double-distillation to make a smoother, more elegant spirit. The column is known as an alambic Armagnacais, with a maximum of 17 plates but often as few as four. Unlike the Coffey and Stein stills that were being developed in Ireland and Scotland a little later, the alambic Armagnacais produces a low strength alcohol of between 50-70% ABV which is packed full of congeners. These distinctive copper stills look like something out of Jules Verne and are often fueled by wood, even those belonging to large producers like Château du Tariquet. Usually once lit, these will work 24 hours a day until the entire vintage has been distilled. The distillation season runs from October to March. Often villagers will hold a party known as La Flamme de l’Armagnac to celebrate this special time of the year. Only 48 houses in Armagnac own their own copper still, so to support the rest of the houses, there are five travelling distillers who pull their alambic by tractor around the villages.

These unique stills produce a spirit that’s full of character, sometimes a little fiery in youth, but responds well to long-ageing in wood. Traditionally, Armagnac was aged in local oak though nowadays barrels might come from further north in France. Only 400 litre French wood barrels are allowed and a proportion will be kept in new wood to impart spice and tannin. After decades in wood, the best Armagnac develops a character known as ‘rancio’ with notes of dried apricot, pineapple and walnuts. As in Cognac, much Armagnac is sold with statements that designate a minimum age: VS (two years), VSOP (four years) and XO or Hors d’Age (ten years.) You also see age statements like 10 or 20 years old as in whisky and many vintage releases. These last offer astonishing value for money and are often bottled at cask strength. Many producers have demi-johns of vintage Armagnac dating back to the 19th century. In fact this whole region is a mecca for those who love old wood-aged spirits.

Despite its very traditional image, Armagnac producers are innovating with packaging aimed squarely at the whisky consumer, Islay cask finishes (though these are not allowed to be called Armagnac), and an unaged Armagnac Blanche that’s proving very popular with bartenders. Younger fresher Armagnacs are great in simple cocktails like an Old Fashioned or a Sidecar, whereas the older examples are best sipped neat. In Armagnac itself, no meal is complete until you’ve had decent vintage brandy. You can start your meal the Gascony way too, with a glass of chilled Floc de Gascogne, a blend of grape juice and brandy, not dissimilar to Pineau des Charentes.

Laberdolive 1962

70cl, 44%
Laberdolive

Single vintage Armagnac from Laberdolive, distilled in 1962 - well over 50 years ago! An incredible gift for an Armagnac aficionado born in 1962...  More info

Laberdolive 1962
£680

Domaine Boingnères 1986 Folle Blanche

70cl, 49%
Domaine Boingnères

1986 vintage Bas Armagnac from Domaine Boingnères, made exclusively with the Folle Blanche grape, which doesn't get used all that much. Domaine Boingnères are well know for using healthy helpings of…  More info

Domaine Boingnères 1986 Folle Blanche
£245.88

Domaine Boingnères 1972 Cépages Nobles

70cl, 47%
Domaine Boingnères

A cracking vintrage Armagnac from Domaine de Boingnères. This is a robust, full bodied, spicy spirit, distilled in 1972 from Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc and Colombard.  More info

Domaine Boingnères 1972 Cépages Nobles
£635

Baron De Lustrac 1978

70cl, 40%
Baron de Lustrac

A stunning well-aged Armagnac from Baron De Lustrac created with grapes that were harvested in 1978 before it was aged in 420-litre oak barrels.  More info

Baron De Lustrac 1978
£120

Blanche de Cassagnoles Armagnac

70cl, 45%
Domaine de Cassagnoles

A blanche Armagnac here from Domaine de Cassagnoles, which impressively manages to display oodles of familiar, rich, aromatic notes you usually find in cask-aged Armagnacs. Ought to be good for…  More info

Blanche de Cassagnoles Armagnac
£44.95

Delord 1964 Bas-Armagnac

50cl, 40%
Delord

A bottle of Bas-Armagnac from the Delord range, distilled all the way back in 1964 - the same year that Charlie and the Chocolate Factory was published. That book still holds up very well indeed, and…  More info

Delord 1964 Bas-Armagnac
£160

L'Encantada Domaine Larege 1986

50cl, 40.6%
L'Encantada

Terrific limited edition Bas-Armagnac from Domaine Larege. It was made with baco grapes all the way back in 1986. Only 142 bottles of this were produced, at 40.6% ABV.  More info

L'Encantada Domaine Larege 1986
£111.95

L'Encantada Domaine Del Cassou 1987

50cl, 48.6%
L'Encantada

L'Encantada bottled this 1987 vintage Armagnac, which was made with the rarely seen but delightful Baco grape from Domaine del Cassoum which has specialised in the variety for around 100 years.  More info

L'Encantada Domaine Del Cassou 1987
£109.95

L'Encantada Domaine Pouy 2004

50cl, 59.7%
L'Encantada

We love a L'Encantada bottling. Single cask, cask strength, small-batch Armagnac bottled without any additional colour or filtering as well as a price tag that doesn't make your eyes bulge like a…  More info

L'Encantada Domaine Pouy 2004
£81.95

L'Encantada Domaine Pouy 2006

50cl, 58.7%
L'Encantada

A vintage 2006 Armagnac from Domaine Pouy bottled up at 58.7% ABV by the clever clogs at L'Encantada, who are experts at selecting delicious brandy.  More info

L'Encantada  Domaine Pouy 2006
£79.95

Janneau Armagnac 1950

70cl, 42%
Janneau

A single vintage Armagnac here from the legendary Janneau Armagnac house, distilled all the way back in 1950! It's always an impressive feat to see spirit distilled so long ago survive to this day…  More info

Janneau Armagnac 1950
£653.99

Samaroli Bas-Armagnac 1964

70cl, 43.8%
Samaroli

A rather spectacular Bas-Armagnac from indie Italian bottler, the ever wonderful Samaroli. The brandy was produced back in 1964, and was bottled in celebration of Samaroli's 50th anniversary. Aged in…  More info

Samaroli Bas-Armagnac 1964
£547.43

Château de Léberon 2000

50cl, 46%
Château de Léberon

Let's take things back to the year 2000, everyone was happy that the Millennium bug turned out not to be a thing, Irish boybands were all the rage, and excellent films like M. Night Shyamalan's…  More info

Château de Léberon 2000
£97.95

L'encantada Domaine Laoue 1999

50cl, 52.7%
L'Encantada

This Armagnac was sourced from Domaine Laoue and was distilled in 1999 from ugni blanc and bacco grapes. It's bottled at 52.7% ABV. L’Encantada is an independent Armagnac bottler set up in 2011 by…  More info

L'encantada Domaine Laoue 1999
£89.95

Baron de Sainte-Fauste 10 Year Old Bas Armagnac

70cl, 40%
Baron de Sainte-Fauste

A delightful 10 year old Bas Armagnac from Baron de Sainte-Fauste. Produced using a majority of Ugni Blanc and a smaller portion of Baco grapes, it is distilled in a traditional copper alembic still.…  More info

Baron de Sainte-Fauste 10 Year Old Bas Armagnac
£59.95

Laberdolive 12 Year Old Bas-Armagnac Terre-Bouc

70cl, 40%
Laberdolive

12 year old Armagnac from the Bas region, produced by the highly respected Laberdolive House, which has been making brandy for over 100 years. As such, expect a very well crafted Armagnac, made by…  More info

Laberdolive 12 Year Old Bas-Armagnac Terre-Bouc
2
£334.99

Domaine Boingnères 1979 Cépages Nobles

70cl, 48%
Domaine Boingnères

The Armagnac from Domaine Boingnères are made using a combination of Ugni Blanc, Colombard and a healthy helping of Folle Blanche eaux-de-vie. This particular bottling is a single vintage expression,…  More info

Domaine Boingnères 1979 Cépages Nobles
£310

Château de Lacquy 1988

70cl, 47%
Château de Lacquy

This is a 1988 Bas Armagnac from the excellent Château de Lacquy. It was distilled the same year that Die Hard was released in cinemas, which begs the questions: does that make this a Christmas drink?  More info

Château de Lacquy 1988
£205

L'Encantada Domaine Del Cassou 1998

50cl, 49.1%
L'Encantada

What we have here is a single vintage bottling from a single producer, Domaine del Cassou, in the Bas Armagnac sub-region. Even more unusually it's made from a single grape variety, bacco. This is…  More info

L'Encantada Domaine Del Cassou 1998
£92.95

L'Encantada Domaine Cutxan 1999

50cl, 44.3%
L'Encantada

Seriously impressive Bas Armagnac from L'Encantada, produced with grapes from Domaine Cutxan in 1999! After a lengthy period of ageing it was bottled at cask strength (not at all common practise in…  More info

L'Encantada Domaine Cutxan 1999
£108.95

Château De Gaube 58 Year Old Bas Armagnac - Notable Age Statements (Decadent Drinks)

70cl, 46.3%
Château De Gaube

In the spirits world, the letters NAS most commonly stand for 'No Age Statement'. Not here though. This stunning Armagnac from Château De Gaube joins the Notable Age Statements series from Decadent…  More info

Château De Gaube 58 Year Old Bas Armagnac - Notable Age Statements (Decadent Drinks)
£378.04

Laberdolive 1993

70cl, 46%
Laberdolive

This is a Bas Armagnac from Laberdolive, made using eaux-de-vie from Domaine de Jaurrey distilled back in 1993. Another addition to Laberdolive's extensive selection of single vintage Armagnac...  More info

Laberdolive 1993
£149.70

Laberdolive 1960

70cl, 43%
Laberdolive

A single vintage Bas Armagnac from Laberdolive, distilled all the way back in 1960! Laberdolive have long been bottling long-aged Armagnac, and have a selection of mind-bogglingly old expressions.  More info

Laberdolive 1960
£550

Laberdolive 1946

70cl, 43%
Laberdolive

This is a 1946 vintage Armagnac from Laberdolive, produced only using Folle Blanche grapes. Very impressive indeed.  More info

Laberdolive 1946
£900

Château de Lacquy 1987 Magnum (1.5L)

150cl, 45%
Château de Lacquy

Single vintage Bas Armagnac from Château de Lacquy, a house that has been in the Armagnac game for over 300 years, and owned by the same family for that whole time! This is a magnum bottle of their…  More info

Château de Lacquy 1987 Magnum (1.5L)
£319.30

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